Priority stops

Think the SPCA for cats, and you will understand the concept of Amsterdam’s Poezenboot. However, what makes it unique is that the cats of Poezenboot actually live in a houseboat.

Imagine, a cat sanctuary that floats!

Poezenboot, which means “puss in boat” in Dutch, is docked along Singel canal, a stone’s throw away from the city’s bustling central station. Having learned of it from the Lonely Planet guidebook, I wanted to visit it in 2005 but something got in the way during the trip.

So this time, I put it in my priority list — it was to be my first stop during a self-guided tour around the city. The cat sanctuary was not difficult to find because it had a little cat figurine on the roof as if to welcome all visitors.
The Poezenboot is a houseboat for stray cats. - NG SU ANN

I even met the boat’s feline ambassador, Rebel. The cat in an orange coat was so lovable and friendly that she slept on my lap as I was having my lunch on a bench beside the boat.

Although I am more a dog lover than a cat person, Rebel stole my heart. I learnt that although she had an owner, she would bring strays to the houseboat as if she were recommending a good hotel to weary travellers.

According to the facility’s website (www.poezenboot.nl), Poezenboot was the brainchild of Henriette van Weelde who once found a feline family sheltering under a tree opposite her house on a canal. She decided to take them in and soon, more strays joined them. Dubbed the cat lady, van Weelde was also approached by people who would bring her unwanted cats.

However, when there was no space left for the cats, she found the solution to be right outside her front door. If people could live in the houseboats which lined the canals, why not cats? And so came the idea to buy one for them.
Obama elephants on sale to raise money for charity. - NG SU ANN

According to Poezenboot’s oldest volunteer Gordon Catanya, 78, the founder bought a houseboat for 70 to 80 guilders. After her death several years ago, a foundation took over the running of Poezenboot, which depends solely on donations. It can accommodate 15 cats and welcomes visitors from all over the world.

It was heartening to see people dropping in to play with the cats and donate generously to the cause.

My next stop was the city’s infamous Red Light District. I had been warned against taking photos of the scantily clad women behind the neon-lit windows or risk having my camera thrown into the canal.

So, when I spotted an empty window, I thought it was harmless to take a few shots. However, I nearly dropped my camera when a prostitute suddenly appeared behind the glass and started banging the window furiously. I gave an apologetic gesture, clutched my camera and turned on my heels.

She was bigger than I was, and I feared that it would be me and not just my camera that would end up in the canal!

After this close shave, I ventured around the notorious neighbourhood with my camera safely kept out of sight in my jacket. It’s ironic that several prostitutes, clad in lacy underwear, even ply their trade in the shadow of Amsterdam’s oldest church, the Oude Kerk.

Some of the girls smiled and beckoned the men who paused for a second while others looked shell-shocked and expressionless (perhaps as a result of curious tourists ogling at them like some circus attraction).

Amsterdam has clearly succeeded like no other city in becoming a modern metropolis without losing the nostalgic air of a historic city. My voyage of discovery through Amsterdam did not cost me much as I had set out to accomplish it on foot.

It’s easy for visitors to get lost within the narrow streets that crisscross its maze of canals. However, I managed to find my way around with an increasingly wrinkled Google map printout. I could feel the pulsating beat of life and rhythm of this overgrown village, as the bicycles whisked past and crowded trams honked at junctions.

At certain public corners, you can see multi-coloured statues of elephants. I learnt that their presence was in conjunction with the Elephant Parade effort. The people organising it aimed to auction off 100 art elephant figurines on Nov 12 in aid of the Elephant Family, the largest Asian elephant charity in the world.

Flea markets are also abundant in Amsterdam. Although Albert Cuypt has the biggest one, the Waterlooplein flea market has become world famous (a Dutch friend said this was because it was easier to pronounce). I went to both, as well as the Bloemenmarkt, Singel’s floating flower market and had a grand time at all three.

The cannabis starter kit piqued my interest at the flower market while I tried a cannabis lolly at Waterlooplein.

I found an affinity with this city with its “live and let live” atmosphere, but cycling can be a hair-raising experience. I was told that if you forget to lock your bike, it would be stolen within 30 seconds. Many of the bikes are the old-fashioned type, whereby you have to back-pedal to stop. However, the Dutch pride themselves as being “born on a bicycle”, and weaving through traffic seems to be second nature to them.

Within the city is the Begijnhof, a diamond-shaped cobblestone courtyard of 17th century buildings. It was built to house Catholic lay sisters, but today the quaint dwellings have become home to unmarried retired women who appreciate having their peaceful garden treated respectfully by visitors.

The picturesque houses, cast iron lampposts and unexpected air of serenity make it hard to think that the place was just steps away from Amsterdam’s busiest shopping street, Kalverstraat.

This long pedestrian mall is lined with hordes of shops offering anything from bargain CDs to branded goods. My feet were sore by the time I had walked up and down the entire length of the street, but it was worth every painful step.

I capped off the day by paying my regular homage to the pretty Dam Square in front of the Koninklijk Palace (Royal Palace). The square used to be Amsterdam’s main market square. Nowadays, it is described as “the heart of the Netherlands” and has the National Monument as its focal point.

This 22m high obelisk was erected after World War II to mark the liberation of the city from German occupation. Its chained figures represent war victims and the inscription reads: “Never again”.

As usual, there were buskers hoping to make a quick Euro around the square. This time, I spotted Batman and Spiderman too. From a close call at the Red Light District to close encounters with comicbook heroes, I had a blast on my day out in town.